Every Spring and Fall when New York Fashion Week, NYFW, rolls around we hear the sentence, "NYFW is dead", but NYFW is more alive now than ever. I think it's time we clarify what NYFW really is, and why so many people are under the false impression that its best days have passed.
What is NFYW?
NYFW: The Shows is an organization focused on providing leading designers from around the world "an unrivaled global platform to showcase their collections bi-annually". To be invited to show a collection at NYFW is a privilege and a sign of great emerging talent in fashion. With this is mind, it is no shock when you look at the week's schedule and see no legacy designer house. They're already legacies, why are we surprised they aren't there?
These legacy houses have already laid their claim in the industry, they don't need the exposure NYFW: The Shows offer, instead they have their own showcase schedules during NYFW. However, the metaphoric wall that shielded the reality of NYFW has been demolished by social media, and with the help of influencers the public's opinion has shifted. This has put fashion shows from a legacy house like Khaite and fast fashion company like SHEIN under the same label of NYFW, leading to the negative discourse we see today. Countless comments are online stating the crowds today are "commercial and childish", and overall classless compared to NYFW history. Rarely do they realize, they're comparing fast fashion's crass to the refined legacy of big fashion houses from the 2000s.
Like I said those designer house fashion shows are still happening, but to get there it's all about who you know, the key is secrecy and exclusivity. Big brands like Khaite, Dion Lee, and Caroline Herrera choose to separate themselves from commercialized practices with private events, undisclosed locations and invite only shows. The only media shared is thanks to the industry professionals and top creators posting in a sleuth-like 'if you know, you know' manner.
So, is NYFW dead?
It depends on who you ask and who you follow online. As mentioned, my favorite people to watch in fashion are the professionals who work as buyers, merchandisers, and editors. These are the people with private accounts or minimal followings that often get overlooked to the public. According to that feed, NYFW is alive and well, the exclusivity and secrecy is still thriving in the culture. However, if you prefer the mainstream eye, the NYFW you ogled at in Vogue and Elle in the 2000s is dead. Today the viral press on NYFW is often about the paid influencers and events of the fast fashion brands like PLT, SHEIN, and OhPolly. This has shifted the topic to manufactured 'it girls' and people who don't truly care for fashion just exposure.
For legacy brands, NYFW is still about the designs and experiences, notoriety is important but their tactics are different. They focus on inviting the decision makers and behind the scene influencers in the industry to spread word of mouth about the stunning pieces. This means they don't care about the negative comments on social media around NYFW, because they know what you now know, New York Fashion Week was never and will never be dead.
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